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Salvador de Bahia
Festivals

Salvador has kept the heavy African influence that was brought over with the 1.3 million slaves during the "white gold" sugar boom. The many gods of Candamoble that have long been forgotten in Africa- Oxala, Oxossi, Xangô Yemanja and Iansa- are everyday household names in Bahia, and a lot of the events that take place on the social calendar revolve around religious holidays and celebrations. Thus many of the festivals hold, at least in part, a religious tradition. "Festa profana" means a non-religious part of a religious celebration.

New Year's Eve
People come dressed in white for good luck, light candles and throw flowers and offerings to the goddess of the sea, Yemanja. There is also a large display of fireworks, and in front of the lighthouse-farol- are performances by famous and prominent Brazilian musicians. The celebration stretches from the lighthouse to Porto da Barra, with tables set up, music blasting, people dancing, and parties hopping.

On the Boa Viagem at Itapagipe Beach, there is the Festa do Senhor Bom Jesus dos Navegantes, which is a boat carrying a picture of Jesus dos Navegantes. It is launched from a church and accompanied by many other smaller boats.

Farol Folia
This is a pre-Carnaval celebration that takes place in the first 2 weeks of January, with Carnaval blocos partying and dancing around their respective trio eletricos.

Lavagem do Bonfim
This huge and beautiful festival takes place on the second Thursday of every January, and has been doing so since 1754. It is a huge celebration for the Catholic and Candomble faiths together, for N.S. do Bonfim is loved for his embracing catholics- and non-catholics alike, and he is associated with the Candamble god Oxala as with Jesus Christ, respectively.

Everyone gathers at the famous Church of Conceicao da Praia and proceeds over to the Church of Bonfim 10 kilometers away. Here, barefoot baianas wash and cleanse the steps, which comes from the old tradition of the washing of the inside of the church that has now been carried over into a ritual of just the steps.

Horse drawn carriages, government officials, musicians, natives, those of Candomble faith, Catholics and tourists all gather and follow the Filhos de Gandhy (Sons of Ghandi) They march right by the Baianas who are all dressed in white with colorful sacred beads and elongated white vases filled with flowers and water on their heads. As they then proceed to wash the steps, ten of thousands of others spread about the many set-up booths for food and drink, and some famous trio eletricos form the background of Brazilian beat. There is non-stop drumming, and everyone is in white as people proceed to dance, drink, eat acaraje and be blessed by the holy water that pours onto their hands and heads from the Baianas vases. Many locals also choose to hop on a bus and go down to Conceicao da Praia Church where the music from the trios continues until dawn.

Festa de Yemanja
The beauty of this festival is echoed in the title of this goddess to whom the festival is dedicated: The Goddess of the Sea. Every year on February 2nd fireworks are sounded at 5 am, and the faithful gather around the temporary shack built to store gifts to Yamanja on the Rio Vermelho Beach. Inside is a silver or bronze statue of the goddess admiring herself in the mirror (which is why a common offering is a small, hand held mirror.) The goddess is beautiful and aware of her beauty. Other offerings include beads, white roses, soap and perfume bottles which are placed in baskets guarded by the Baianas outside of Yemanjas temporary "temple." There are also notes written, asking for wishes to be granted.
The Maes de Santo- Candomble priestess- dance and chant near-by, performing the traditional religious dances to the persistent beating of drums.

Once the baskets are full- usually at about 4 p.m.- the offerings are transferred over to many boats that are then floated out to sea andguarded by the statue of Yemanja- which is returned then by the fishermen for next years celebration. Afterwards, in Bahian style, people fill the streets for another all-night celebration of life.

Sao Joao (Saint John)
This celebration takes place in June, and is traditionally a harvest festival with typical foods containing corn, liquor from the genipapo fruit, and bonfires. It is a family and friends celebration, and takes place within the small town where each person's families are from. For foreigners to Salvador, there are plenty "family" interiors held for the general public, with shows and square dancing. Forro music is the primary accompaniment to this celebration.


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